CULTURE FORWARD

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Personal wearing clothful steetwear clothing while outside standing under a clear blue sky

Photo snatch by Acielle/Styledumonde for Vogue Business

Rumour Mill: The Streetwear is Dead Anthology—Volume One

November 18, 2024 by Safra Ducreay in Streetwear, Conversations

We invite you to read a series of critical essays and interviews we found while searching the web. Streetwear is my beat; however, the death of streetwear is a lament-over-lattes I don't think about.

While the reads are insightful, there is some fluff. If the market weren't booming, I'd report on cats or glycolic acid toner instead.

Without streetwear, publications like Hypebeast and i-D wouldn't be as influential.

Not every black designer falls into the streetwear category. However, most black streetwear designers who align with streetwear are eager to distance themselves from it. If these designers were to embrace streetwear's ethos with the same conviction as Karl Kani, Too Black Guys, or, yes, FUBU, they could stand alongside the best in fashion.

I doubt an editor at XXL or Thrasher would see an issue; these conversations are usually reserved for fashion’s upper echelons. It’s generally left to streetwear’s OGs to steer the narrative properly.

Game recognizes game, folks.

Either way, these think pieces go way back.

How far back, you ask?

Let's find out.

Streetwear Is Going Back to Its Roots, According to Industry Experts [WWD]

“I always say streetwear is dead because it’s then born again the next morning.” Bobby Hundreds tells WWD. “It just keeps turning over and over and responding back to itself.”

Read Bobby’s 2017 essay, The Truth About Streetwear.

What’s Next for Hip-Hop and Fashion [The Business of Fashion]

“[Brands] know that they have to tap into the culture.” Steven Victor tells BoF. Quote of the year.

How to define streetwear in 2024 [Vogue Business]

“They were like, ‘There’s a new consumer.’ What people call streetwear — founded in hip-hop, music, style, culture made by Black people, Hispanic people — was consumed 80 per cent by white and Asian kids, ” Tremaine Emory told Vogue Business. “So they’re like, ‘Oh, we can get these aesthetics into our thing. We can get those people who have the money to buy it.’” <- This is the truth.

Virgil Abloh: Streetwear? It’s Definitely Gonna Die [Dazed]

“I would definitely say [streetwear] is gonna die, you know? Like, its time will be up. In my mind, how many more t-shirts can we own, how many more hoodies, how many sneakers?” Virgil told Dazed.

Virgil Abloh Shares Pics of His LV² Collaboration With Nigo and Clarifies That “Streetwear Is Dead” Comment [Vogue]

“I didn’t say it to be polarizing,” Virgil told Vogue. “I think that in the context of this conversation with Nigo—if you speak to anyone that’s been in streetwear for the last 15 years, it’s always had this sort of nine lives, dying and coming back, and dying and coming back. There’s so many first-generation streetwear brands, stores, and retailers.”

Streetwear is Dead [New York Times]

“I never really identified with [the term “streetwear”] or wanted to use it.” Heron Preston told NYT. “I was forced to because in some ways it’s an instant invitation into a culture. There are all sorts of associations that come up when you say that word.”

Relax, Streetwear is Only Dead Because Fashion Has Engulfed It [Culted]

“What were once staples of ‘streetwear’ silhouettes (oversized, dropped shoulders etc) soon just became immersed into most collections debuting in fashion month – from emerging to established brands.” Said Stella Huges. “There was no need to enforce a rigid binary between the two – they became one and the same.”

November 18, 2024 /Safra Ducreay
Vogue, Women's Wear Daily, Dazed, Culted, The Business of Fashion, New York Times, Bobby Hundreds, Virgil Abloh
Streetwear, Conversations
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Black in Fashion 100 Years of Style, Influence & Culture

The 100 Years of Black Fashion That Almost Went Unnoticed

November 16, 2024 by Safra Ducreay in Books, Fashion, Culture, Style

When WWD announced the release of their book, "Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence and Culture," I thought, 'That was my idea!'

No, the publication did not steal my idea by any means.

I'm thrilled to hear about this milestone recognition of black fashion and culture. However, once upon a time, back in 2011, I pitched this idea to Bloomsbury Publishing. 

I'm not sure how I mustered up the courage to contact one of the most prestigious book publishers in fashion. However, the editor was interested in my idea; I just needed to submit a proper proposal. To my dismay, a fellow fashion journalist from a popular publication at the time, who I will not name, shot down my book idea. This black fashion journalist—let's call it like we see it here, a straight-up hater—didn't see the point of a book celebrating black style. "You wouldn't want a book about white style," he said, questioning the need to elevate black fashion. What's so special? What's so different? 

Homeboy was hard-pressed about it, too. Sambo (not his real name) was striving for that promotion from the cotton field to the house. He clearly didn't want to feel obligated to engage in conversations about why black people tend to be fashion's biggest muse.

Rather than ending the conversation with a heartfelt "I wish you the best with your book," he woke up and chose pettiness. 

Am I going to say black people are the innovators of fashion? That's not factually true. But are we not gonna to talk about FUBU, Ann Lowe, Patrick Kelly, Willi Smith, Stephen Burrows, André Leon Talley, and Virgil Abloh? 

Are we not going to recognize the Michael "Air" Jordan phenomenon, the bling era, or the Harlem Renaissance?

I'm proud of the book's brilliant writers, Tonya Blazio-Licorish and Tara Donaldson. Their roles at WWD have placed these women in unique positions for such a complex undertaking, combining their encyclopedia knowledge on this historical topic with their lived experiences.

If anything, this project took way too long. I wanted to bring this topic to the forefront more than twelve or thirteen years ago, and I'm glad that the establishments have finally taken notice. 

I didn't pursue the book. The editor moved to a different publishing company, and writing a book wasn't something I was professionally ready for. Living in London, UK, I was still finding my footing as a budding fashion writer. When it comes to ideas such as this, you need to respect the hierarchy. 

Luckily, the emails stay in my archive as tangible memories.

Women's Wear Daily and the Fairchild Archives book, "Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence and Culture" is out now.

Black in Fashion 100 Years of Style, Influence and Culture

As for those who refuse to recognize the significance of black people's contributions to fashion,

Well... 

It always be ya own people, smgdh.

Stop the hate.

Ciao Edie!

November 16, 2024 /Safra Ducreay
Black Icons, Women's Wear Daily, Journalism
Books, Fashion, Culture, Style
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